September 13, 2020 at 2:09 am #99650
Just wanted to compare notes on what adjustments in RAW Power you use to add pop to your images.
What I am usually doing to achieve that goal – without overdoing it and making the images look unnatural – is to play with the enhance adjustments, possibly a bit of saturation, bit of sharpness and finally adding a curve if needed. Or even start with the curve to adjust black point and white point.
Possibly there are some recommended starting points in the raw adjustments, however I am using a Fujifilm X-Pro2 and an X100V, and the sooc jpgs (be it Velvia, Astia, Classic Chrome and for sure Acros) have something special to it that not even the corresponding LUTs in RAW Power can match. I know that working in RAW Power on the basis of an 8-bit jpg is not ideal, but…
So looking forward to hearing some best practices from others.
ErikSeptember 13, 2020 at 1:07 pm #99771
I usually work with lighten and deepen because they do a nice job of bringing richness to the image. Usually vibrancy rather than saturation. Sometimes a light vignette. The brightness slider can provide unexpected improvements because it’s not a conventional brightness algorithm (it’s a gamma function). Usually a little definition or sharpen. I also use the auto enhance a lot.September 14, 2020 at 2:45 am #99897
Thank you, Nik, I will definitely give Brightness and Vibrancy (rather than Saturation) a try.September 16, 2020 at 2:31 am #100317MonvisoViewParticipant
I look forward to hearing what others do too!
I have set a preset to automatically apply. It’s a starting point which suits most of my pics.
It has highlights down to 0.97, shadows up to 0.8, recovery to 0.04.
Definition is at 0.20, deepen at 0.07, lighten at 0.15
Contrast is at 1.1, saturation 0.94, vibrancy 0.11
Sharpen at 0.2
I created a LUT to bring down the saturations of greens and their brightness. I frequently use this whenever there is a lot of grass in a pic.
I add a gentle curve modification – sometimes on luminosity. I bring up the red curve a smidgen for portraits.
Nik, would it be possible to explain more precisely what the difference is between deepen and shadow please? ie, does one negate the other, or do they act on different parts of the curve. And also how they interact with the black point? thank you!September 16, 2020 at 9:58 pm #100368
Deepen is analogous to Highlights.
Lighten is similar to shadows.
Highlights and Shadows can affect contrast (especially shadows). On the other hand, Deepen and Lighten maintain overall image contrast.
I would not say that Deepen negates Shadows, because Shadows works on the left (dark) part of the histogram and Deepen works on the right (light) part of the histogram.
Black Point is not related to either. Black Point is the definition of black (zero). If you raise or lower the black point, it will affect any adjustment that works on the shadows or darker parts of the image.September 20, 2020 at 3:58 am #100610
Just following on from your discussion about editing.
I’ve only just started using Raw Power in the last couple of months, since getting my iPad Pro, and deciding to switch to it as my primary computer device. I have owned RP for some time on the iMac, but didn’t find many occasions to use it. So, I have been experimenting a bit with it now, and the integration with Photos has meant I can now consider ditching Lightroom.
After some trying out of stuff, I have come to this as a current solution.
On my Nikon images (D5100 and now D5300), I’m liking the look that the Provia LUT gives. So, as you have done, I have made a preliminary preset as a starting point, which adds a little Raw sharpening for my budget ‘kit’ lenses. I haven’t worked back to older cameras as yet (I have Olympus, Fuji and Panasonic collected over the last few years). The Astia LUT works well on family wedding pictures.
I then apply Auto Enhance, and then work down and tweak as necessary. I prefer the look that the ‘Levels’ option gives, rather than Curves, which I found can sometimes result in a colour balance I don’t like, the Levels option seems to give more constantly neutral results.
I’m now able to edit images as fast as I did in Lightroom, with equally good, or better, results.
The Sharpen module is very deceiving too, for such a simple adjustment, it works brilliantly well for most images, and seems quite forgiving in how much you can apply.
The only thing I’d like to be able to do in a preset is to turn on the Raw module, without applying fixed settings, but allow it to apply any camera default settings it finds – such as the Luma and Chroma noise settings, which can change dependent on ISO).
Cheers.September 20, 2020 at 4:20 am #100612
As far as I understand you can define Presets per camera model and have them automatically applied. You can then overlay those with additional adjustment presets which you add to the existing camera preset adjustments (don’t use replace).September 20, 2020 at 4:56 am #100614
I’ll have a look in the documentation, but I can’t see anything that allows for any of that to happen? (IPadOS 14). There’s only the options for a New Preset, which only offers a name for it, or Edit, which only allows re-ordering or deleting. A far as I can see here anyway.
Cheers.September 20, 2020 at 5:46 am #100616
It is possible. When you save an adjustment set as a preset, you can tick a box to automatically apply this preset to images from this camera. You would have your additional adjustments saved in a separate preset which should NOT be automatically be applied to images from this camera. The images from this camera would first automatically receive the auto presets, and then you would incrementally add the other preset(s), i.e. NOT replace.September 20, 2020 at 8:57 am #100624
No, nothing there at all Erik, there is New, then a naming dialogue with ok and cancel, then that’s it, it’s created. In Edit, I only see a delete symbol or a move symbol. Nothing else.
To confirm, iPadOS 14, not desktop.
Looking at the documentation, it is there in the desktop version, but not mentioned for the iOS version.
For sure, camera default presets would be useful.
AndySeptember 20, 2020 at 9:09 am #100626
Ah, ok, sorry, didn’t see the comment on iPadOS 14.September 20, 2020 at 9:12 am #100628
No worries, at least it’s not as badly iOS limited compared to the Adobe options 😉 (which is one reason why I’ve switched).September 20, 2020 at 9:19 am #100630
You are correct camera default presets are not in the iOS app. I’ll make a note to see what would be involved to get them working on iOS.September 20, 2020 at 9:41 am #100632
You’re a bit of a star Nik :-).
I appreciate that iOS will be more restricted than the desktop OS, so I’m never expecting everything to be the same, I just mention things in case they can be achieved.
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